Sunlit Water

May 11, 2008

I Will Put Playgrounds Next To Sewage Systems

Filed under: Culture, Personal, Sex — by teofilo @ 5:00 pm

On my last night in Budapest I went to see Forgetting Sarah Marshall with the friend I was visiting and a couple of her friends from work.  Notwithstanding the weirdness of spending my time in a foreign country seeing an American movie, I enjoyed it.  I hadn’t seen any of Judd Apatow’s previous films, most of which took on subject matter a little too familiar for comfort, but I thought this was an interesting take on the romantic comedy genre, and while it did hew to some of the conventions of that genre I thought it undermined others in unexpected ways.  The main character is oddly unsympathetic, especially at first, and it’s quite an achievement on the part of the filmmakers to make him at least somewhat sympathetic by the end.

I’ve heard that a common criticism of Apatow’s previous films is the lack of depth to the female characters, and while this one is definitely primarily from a male point of view, I think all the characters are presented as real people with real emotions and foibles.  Even the new boyfriend, while he is irritating in many ways, isn’t the cardboard villain that many romantic comedies put in this place.  Indeed, almost all the characters are pretty sympathetic, some more than others and some more at some times than others.

I do think it ran a bit long, which is typical of pretty much all movies these days, and while I appreciated the relative lack of obvious plot machinery, it could have been a lot more focused.  Still, this is an interesting movie, quite funny, and worth seeing if you’re into this sort of thing.

May 8, 2008

96 Tears

Filed under: Culture, Personal, Urban Living — by teofilo @ 5:14 pm

According to legend, the Magyars, as the Hungarians call themselves in their language, entered the Hungarian plain in 896 AD. They were pagan invaders from the east at the time, and they terrified the settled Christian inhabitants of eastern Europe until they began to settle down and convert to Christianity in the late tenth and early eleventh centuries, a process that culminated with the reign of King Stephen I, canonized as St. Stephen after his death.

Among the early Magyar settlements was one on the west bank of the Danube at the site of the ancient Roman city of Aquincum. This was at first merely a provincial town, but in the late middle ages the kings of Hungary noticed that one of the hills to the south of it had an excellent strategic position right by the river, and they decided to fortify it. A town called Buda grew up around the fortifications, and the older settlement at Aquincum became known as Óbuda (”Old Buda”). Buda soon became the capital of Hungary, and under King Matthias in the late fifteenth century it flourished as a wealthy, cosmopolitan city, with a diverse population. Many minority groups, including Jews, lived in the city under the tolerant regime of Matthias, and each had its own street. This happy situation didn’t last long, however, for soon after the death of Matthias Buda was conquered by the Ottoman Turks along with much of the rest of the Hungarian kingdom. This was not actually much of a problem for the minority groups, who flourished under the tolerant rule of the Ottomans much as they had under Matthias, but for the Hungarian kings and nobility it was a devastating loss of power. The city was finally reconquered by a combined force of Christians in 1686 with the support of Pope Innocent XI, and the victors immediately expelled the minority groups and took possession of what was left of the city, which had been greatly damaged in the fighting.

Buda was rebuilt and recovered some of its prosperity, but it never regained its prominent position within the kingdom, as political and economic power was shifting to the newer city of Pest across the river. Under the Habsburgs, especially, Pest became the capital of Hungary and a bustling, wealthy city with some of the finest architecture in Europe. Then, in 1873, Pest was combined with Buda (along with the oft-overlooked Óbuda) to form a new capital city, Budapest.

And what a city it is.  Buda, composed these days largely of residential neighborhoods and tourist attractions, forms a pretty (though not actually very old) counterpoint to the modern excitement of Pest, with its broad boulevards and grand buildings, including the Parliament building and the Basilica of St. Stephen, both of which culminate in domes exactly 96 meters high in commemoration of the date of the entrance of the Magyars into what would become their country.

And, indeed, they consider it very much their country, and are extremely nationalistic.  Reading a Hungarian account of the history of Hungary is like seeing a montage of the great humiliations visited upon the Hungarian people by various oppressors, starting with the Turks and the Habsburgs and culminating with the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, which, from the Hungarian perspective, robbed Hungary of a massive portion of the territory it had held under the Double Monarchy and reduced it to its present size.  They’re still incredibly bitter about this; I saw many maps of pre-Trianon Hungary in bookstores, and I even saw a holographic one where you could see the loss of territory just by moving your head.  I suspect the residents of the areas that were taken away from Hungary, including all of Slovakia and Croatia and a substantial part of Romania, have a different perspective on this event.

Still, it’s an interesting country, and Budapest is a fantastic city.  I took a lot of pictures, but they really don’t do it justice.  I highly recommend a trip there for anyone, though it would probably help to either learn some Hungarian first or know someone there who can guide you around a bit.

May 5, 2008

Borderlands

Filed under: Culture, Personal — by teofilo @ 4:56 pm

My girlfriend is housesitting this week near Whole Foods, so today I had my first experience of that controversial establishment. Now that I’ve seen it, I finally understand both why it’s so expensive and why people like it so much: the stuff all looks like it’s of really high quality. I only had coffee and a muffin, but they were both excellent. I still, of course, abhor the labor practices and such, and I won’t be going there often.

While we were there we noticed that most of the employees were wearing sombreros, which reminded us that it was Cinco de Mayo (and provided me with an excuse to gently chide my companion for getting an almond croissant). Cinco de Mayo occupies an ambiguous place in the cultural landscape of New Mexico. Despite a common misapprehension among Anglos, it is not Mexican Independence Day. That’s September 16, or Dieciséis de Septiembre, which is a major holiday in Mexico but is virtually unheard of in the US except among Mexican immigrants themselves. Cinco de Mayo instead commemorates the battle of Puebla in 1862, a major victory for Mexican forces over an invading French army sent to collect debts owed to France by Mexico. It is not even a federal holiday in Mexico, and it is celebrated primarily in the state of Puebla. Its observance in the US originated in California shortly after the battle, when the Hispanic population, only recently conquered by the US and still having substantial connections to Mexico, began to commemorate the victory as a sign of solidarity with the Mexican people. In recent decades it has become such a major celebration in California that it has spread to other parts of the country, especially those with large Mexican immigrant populations, and it has even begun to occupy a role for Mexican-Americans such as St. Patrick’s Day occupies for Irish-Americans and Columbus Day occupies for Italian-Americans, and like those earlier immigrant holidays it is steadily becoming an excuse to party and drink even for those with no connection to the ethnicity in question. Much tequila is consumed, and underpaid employees at fancy grocery stores wear sombreros.

New Mexico, of course, has a substantial and growing Mexican immigrant population these days, so it’s hardly a surprise that Cinco de Mayo is a big deal here. This is a somewhat recent development, however, and the majority of the Hispanic population in the state is descended from the original settlers who came here under Spanish rule, many of whom make great pains to distinguish themselves from Mexicans and identify more directly with Spain. In many circles the word “Chicano” is a slur. This is starting to change with increasing recent immigration, and among younger generations especially there is a growing sense of a Hispanic identity that includes close ties to Mexico. The increasing prominence of Cinco de Mayo plays a role in this process.

Nevertheless, the distinction between “Mexican” and “New Mexican” (or “Hispano”) in this state is still very much alive, and it is largely the result of the fact that New Mexico was conquered by the US in the 1840s and effectively cut off from Mexico in many ways for several decades after that, ironically including the time when the battle of Puebla actually happened. The same was true for California, of course, but the situation was different there in ways that I don’t know much about. There is no parallel to the development of Cinco de Mayo for New Mexico in this period, and the trend was very much toward less rather than more solidarity with Mexico. There is a lot of scholarly literature on this topic with which I am not very familiar, but certainly the encouragement of increasing distance from Mexico and identification with the US, exemplified most obviously in the movement for statehood, was identified with the elites of the territory, not just the Anglo immigrants who flowed in during the decades after the conquest but their close allies, the wealthy Hispanic families who had amassed great fortunes in agriculture, stockraising and trade under the late colonial and Mexican liberal economic regimes. New Mexico in the nineteenth century was a starkly inegalitarian society, marked by a contrast between a handful of wealthy families who owned vast tracts of land on which they grew crops and herded sheep in order to make huge profits shipping their surplus south to Chihuahua (and, beginning in the 1820s, north to St. Louis as well) and a much larger number of poor farmers and shepherds just barely scraping by on small plots of land. Both groups supplemented their earnings, whether large or small, with occasional expeditions to the edges of the territory to trade with the Indians surrounding on all sides, the most important of which were the Comanches to the east, the Navajos to the west and the Utes to the north. Many of these expeditions were peaceful and oriented toward trade, but there was also a significant amount of raiding, for the livestock that were increasingly important to both the Indian and Hispanic economies in this period but also, and perhaps more importantly for the development of a “borderland” society, for slaves.

Captives & Cousins: Slavery, Kinship, and Community in the Southwest Borderlands by James F. Brooks is a study of just what role this slave trade played in both Indian and Hispanic societies as they interacted and changed over the period of roughly 1700–1850.  His basic finding and contention is that while Indian and New Mexican societies were very different in many ways, they also had certain key similarities, most importantly a focus on male honor as expressed in both the capture of dependent women and children from elsewhere and the protection of such dependents, both captive and not, from capture by others.  This led to the development of a particular type of reciprocal slave-raiding and other cultural interactions more similar to that found in places such as Africa than the better-known chattel slavery of the American South in this same period.  Slaves in the Southwest existed in a hazy zone between the status of property and that of kin, and this odd ambiguity contributed greatly to the dynamic, mixed nature of borderland society.  Not that the lot of a slave was that great, of course, or even necessarily better than that of a slave in the South at this time, but there was a great deal of variety in the experiences and conditions of captives throughout the region.

I was reading this book over the course of a couple weeks before I left on my trip, and I finished it on my flight from Philadelphia to Frankfurt on the way to Budapest.  It was an interesting experience to read about the understudied and somewhat seamy history of my home state while traveling to a distant continent, but it gave me a lot to think about.  There is a lot more to this book than the slave trade, and it serves in some ways as a decent introduction to the social and economic history of the Southwest in the period it covers.  Highly recommended for anyone interested in this sort of thing.

May 4, 2008

As It Happened, He Couldn’t

Filed under: Personal, Politics, Urban Living — by teofilo @ 4:38 pm

I normally don’t say much about current politics here, but I do like Obama, as does my mom, so when we got into Philadelphia and learned that there just so happened to be an Obama rally planned for that very night we were glad to get the opportunity to check it out.  It was outside on the lawn in front of Independence Hall, so even though we were too far back to see him, we had no trouble finding a place to stand.  It took a long time for him to show up, but when he did he was electrifying.  The man’s a damn good speaker.  While he did have some harsh words for HRC, with whom he was then locked in a tight struggle for Pennsylvania, I found it interesting that he started out by blasting McCain instead, and only moved on to the primary fight toward the end of the speech.  He definitely seems to be positioning himself for the general.  While the speech he gave was clearly just his normal stump speech, he did manage to weave in a theme of “declaring independence” throughout, a nod to the specific location.

It was pretty exciting to be in Philadelphia just before the primary.  The city was abuzz with political fervor, mostly pro-Obama in the areas we saw.  While he did end up losing the state, of course, it was pretty cool to see how fired-up people were in his support.

The real reason we were in town, of course, was for the seder, and it was very nice.  We actually went to two, on Saturday and Sunday nights, then flew out on Monday (my mom and sister back to Albuquerque, me on to Budapest).  During the downtime I took some pictures.

May 2, 2008

A Legal Fiction

Filed under: Personal, Urban Living — by teofilo @ 9:45 am

While I wait to decide what to do about my pictures in the long run, I’ve started uploading them to Flickr.  Here are a few I took in Wilmington, Delaware, when we stopped there briefly on the way from BWI to Philadelphia right at the beginning.

May 1, 2008

Jiggity Jog

Filed under: Personal — by teofilo @ 11:38 am

That was quite a trip.  I’ll have several posts about it soon, but first, a bleg: I have a lot of pictures, but I’ve been getting increasingly frustrated with all the restrictions Flickr’s been putting on free accounts, so I’d be interested in any recommendations for other free photo sites with all or most of the functionality of Flickr but none of the restrictions.  I’ll probably put these pictures on Flickr anyway, but I think I’ll likely be moving everything to a new site pretty soon.

April 16, 2008

More Silence

Filed under: Personal — by teofilo @ 3:27 pm

Today is my last day of work.  On Friday I’m flying to Philadelphia for the seder, then on Monday I’m flying from there to Budapest to visit a friend for about a week.  I probably won’t have much access to the internet for most of this time, so this may be my last post for a couple weeks.  I’ll be back around the beginning of May.

April 14, 2008

Still Pretty Great

Filed under: Dating, Personal, Sex — by teofilo @ 10:01 pm

Sorry I haven’t posted in a while.  This woman’s insatiable.

April 4, 2008

Another Reason I Haven’t Been Posting Much Here Lately

Filed under: Blogs, Culture, Personal — by teofilo @ 10:59 am

Allow me to introduce 1692 in America.  This is a project I’ve been working on for a while that will continue for the rest of the year.  It’s a day-by-day account of some important events that happened in 1692, described in blog posts on the equivalent dates in 2008.  Since today is April 4, which in 1692 was the Gregorian date of the civil new year, March 25, in England and its colonies, this seemed like a good time to unveil it.  Take a look and see what you think.

March 29, 2008

Awkward

Filed under: Dating, Personal — by teofilo @ 1:51 pm

So things are going great with the new girlfriend (we’ve even changed our Facebook relationship statuses!), but there’s on little issue that makes things a little, um, odd: her first name is the same as my sister’s.  It’s a common name, so this isn’t really all that surprising, but it can make talking about one or the other of them (with, say, my mom) a bit confusing.

« Previous PageNext Page »

Powered by WordPress.com